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General Discussion To Gateway To Airguns => The Shop => : Toolmaker December 21, 2009, 12:40:31 PM
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Made some more changes to the ol' 1377 today. I removed the front sight / barrel band. The barrel is now held by 4 set screws in the breech. I did have the scope mounted on the barrel with a set of intermounts (see here: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23588&mid=188896#M188896 ) but I put it back on the rail on the breech. Don't know if this will improve accuracy or not, just thought I'd give it a try. The gun's already more accurate than I am, LOL.
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Nice job on the 1377c!
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Nice wee shooter..nice job..
pete
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Nice. What size brass stock did you use for that breech, and how did you machine the radius in the bottom of it to match that of the tube? I'm thinking about making a left handed riser breech for my B50 and don't have a 1.25" ball-nosed endmill.
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It started as a piece of 3/4" round stock. The 1377 tube is only 3/4" diameter. I stood the stock upright in the vice, indicated everything true, and used a long 3/4" end mill to cut the radius. It worked, but I wouldn't want to do it that way again if I had a choice. A ball end mill would work much better.
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I'm wanting to make a LH riser breech for my B50, but it has about 1.25" diameter air tube. That's a BIG ball nosed endmill.
Guess I could always make a fly tool cutter that would be driven by the headstock of the lathe, and supported by the tailstock or steady rest. Then I just have to come up with a good way to mount the breech to the saddle.
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That's not a bad idea. I thought about using that method myself when I was making my breech.
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Toolmaker - 12/22/2009 11:55 PM
It started as a piece of 3/4" round stock. The 1377 tube is only 3/4" diameter. I stood the stock upright in the vice, indicated everything true, and used a long 3/4" end mill to cut the radius. It worked, but I wouldn't want to do it that way again if I had a choice. A ball end mill would work much better.
I had that prob..no 19mm ball nose mill....
what I done was use a 20mm end mill run it
along at 45*....
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looking goooood!
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A big ball nosed endmill in a Bridgeport or a Van Norman would be my preferred way of doing it, but it's just not an option for me. I really can't take credit for the fly-tool cutter idea. Think I saw it in one of the Dave Gingery books. Boring out the headstock of the lathe or the mill. It just occurred to me that it would work for my needs.
I've been wanting to make a horizontal conversion for my Benchmaster vertical mill. I could do that, and mount the breech in my rotary table and tailstock.
But by the time I build a horizontal conversion, I could have already set it up in the lathe and made the cut.
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kiwi - 12/24/2009 12:16 AM
Toolmaker - 12/22/2009 11:55 PM
It started as a piece of 3/4" round stock. The 1377 tube is only 3/4" diameter. I stood the stock upright in the vice, indicated everything true, and used a long 3/4" end mill to cut the radius. It worked, but I wouldn't want to do it that way again if I had a choice. A ball end mill would work much better.
I had that prob..no 19mm ball nose mill....
what I done was use a 20mm end mill run it
along at 45*....
But how did you get rid of the sharp angle after milling with the 20mm end mill at a 45 degree angle? It sounds like it could be a viable option for me as well.
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How much did that 1389 forearm cost from Crosman?
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Jaymo - 12/25/2009 4:10 PM
How much did that 1389 forearm cost from Crosman?
Shipping and all it was about $13
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I decided I don't like the barrel floating. It has a strange feel when pumping and I don't like the way it looks. I made a new brass plug and barrel band. Also finally got some grips to match the 2289 pump arm. Looks much better IMHO.
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Jaymo - 12/24/2009 2:13 PM
I'm wanting to make a LH riser breech for my B50, but it has about 1.25" diameter air tube. That's a BIG ball nosed endmill.
Guess I could always make a fly tool cutter that would be driven by the headstock of the lathe, and supported by the tailstock or steady rest. Then I just have to come up with a good way to mount the breech to the saddle.
Boring bar in a 4 jaw...just dial it in to cut 1.25 dia
Then run it along the side to cut a concave face...
Pete
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looks good
cool breech and barrel band