How to make a mussel break out of gal. pipe.pictures

[howie1a]

I was making 2 new mussel breaks and thought maybe one of the members might like  to see the steps I took in making them , from 2 galvinized pipe nipples 1/2 inch x 5 inches and 2 washers , after they are finished all that is needed to do is ream them out to a sliding fit over the barrel and drill and tap 2 screw holes in the break for clamping them to the barrel .Howie

[howie1a]

The outside was galvanized before grinding the gal. off the washers are soldered on the end of the nipple to form the end of the mussel break the orther end needs to be reamed to fit your rifle barrel I found that a 1/2 inch nipple is close to the rifle's barrels that I have. and I am turning the taper with my disk sander. ( made from a old dryer motor and a aluminum plate peel and stick 8 inch sanding disks work fine ) I flux and tin the end of the gal pipe then lay the washers on the pipe all you need to do then it heat the pipe and washers so they solder to the end of the pipe. the solder is on the end of the pipe and when you set the washers in place all it takes is to bring them hot enough to bond.

[Bhawanna]

that's pretty good engineering. doesn't the galvanized pipe make for an extra heavy weight on the barrel?.....have you tried one with copper tubing?...that would be much lighter...just an idea.
still it is good engineering and clever thinking.

[howie1a]

The pellet comes out of the center of the washer instead of turning the mussel break out of a solid piece of metal you solder the washer to form the end of the break the other end goes on the rifle, First you cut the threaded end off and dress it so you have a nice flat place to solder the washer to.What sticks past the nipple gets sanded off so the end is nice and flush , the other threaded end starts your taper since npt are tapered you already have a taper started .

[howie1a]

Copper doesn't blue very good. the beeaman I had had a sliding weight on the barrel that locked with a set screw, it was steel. and thicker. by the time you get done it isn't very heavy.

great job, and a great lesson in how to make beautiful things with feck all

did you use a kit for the bluing or just heat

fin

[howie1a]

I find that if you use cols blue and heat the part to be blued a little it blues better it still takes about 2 times to get a nice blue howie

[Gene_SC]

Great job Howard.. I could probably save allot of money from buying so much aluminum and buy different size galvanized pipe  or just one long piece and cutting it up in different lengths and some washers ..:) Could get rid of my lathe and mill as well..:)

Gene

[howie1a]

Sorry about that Gene but I'm good making stuff out of what you have improvising is one of my gifts. I've worked in a lot of different fields includeing back in the 1960 I worked in a mch. shop on bridgports as well at bench lathes, and my son runs cnc equipt. any way this is only little mussel breaks if I wanted a bull barrel you would be the one I would call on  Howie

[TWBryan]

I never thought of that. My hat's off to you! That's great improvisation.

[dank]

Wow. Fantastic job Howie I love it,

No need to apologize to Gene as I'm sure he is kidding you.

 Besides I'll be willing to bet as great as your innovative brake is  his product is probably a bit more, shall we say, polished.  

Also anyone willing to go through that process to make what amounts to a $25.00 + or -  item has more pride in his accomplishments and time on his hands than he does money.
 

So I'd like to know. What is the actual I.d. of the galvy pipe to start with before any reaming?
 

[Gene_SC]

Don't be sorry Howard..:) There is always more than one way to skin a wabbit..:) I love tinkering around myself when I have time and you did a good job of showing us another way to make muzzle brakes. Just like air gun tuning, some would rather tune there own where others do not want to mess with themor have the tools to do it so they send them off to be tuned.. Mike, aka Splash and Ed, aka Shadow and others have made there own muzzle brakes and shared what materials and how they did them just like you...:) It is fantastic that the GTA has so many members with great talents to share with each other. That is what it is all about. So you keep making and improving on your brakes and keep sharing everything with us...:)

Thanks again for sharing your talents with us Howard.

Gene

[howie1a]

Hi Dan the id before reaming is 9/16 inch and they weigh about 3.6 to 4.1 oz. before reaming, I had one that was to big before reaming and I used shrink tubing on my barrel  I had oiled the barrel before putting the tubing on and later when I went to take the break off I found it stayed with the break that was great.I've mounted the front sights on the break too and put a dimple in the bottom of the barrel and break for realinement  if you need to remove the break so you get it back in the same place, good to do if your fromt sight is on the break.I don't think you end up with more than 3 to 4 bucks in each break all you need is 1 washer 1 pipe1/2 inch  nipple 2 allen socket set screws , and some simple tools, most of us have.I've alwayse have had to make stuff , when you don't have a lot of money you need to be creative and not be afraid to get your hands dirty. I once took a 7mm muser rifle and sportized it I had to take the steps off the barrel with a belt sander that was a trip it came out great after bluing.howie

[jeff124]

Hi Howie,
I've used virtually the same method to make a couple of brakes. I used black iron nipple. I was cutting black plastic and gluing in the muzzle end but I really like your washer idea, think I'll give it a try. Thanks for the terrific post.
jeff

[shadow]

Nice job Howard the finish look's great!. Question: how much weight is setting out on the end of the barrel with the break and have you noticed any lockup issue's with the extra weight. Again great job and thank's for sharing. Ed